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The Plague Doctor

1412 Views • Created 6 years ago By Matt • Updated 4 years ago

Created By Matt • Updated 4 years ago

Step 3

All that's left to do now is hot-glue the beak to the mask (17) Now that that's out of the way, we can get back to making those ridges. How you make them is up to but we found that the best material to use is something with a bit of thickness to it but still easy to cut and trim. The pink insulation foam fits the bill perfectly, but you could just as easily use corrugate cardboard. After deciding on what material you want to use, cut out a circle about 5 in diameter. Within this circle, draw out another circle about 4 in diame- ter and then cut it in half Cut out the smaller half circle from both halves (21). You should now be left with two half-circle strips about ½" wide. Take these and hot glue them onto the mask (22). Using your modelling knife, cut off the raised you, Hooray! The mask has been built! Now let's start adding a few de- 17 Adding Detail In most of the pictures we found of plague doc tor masks, they feature a long groove running along both sides of the beak. To do this, we first need to mark out where we want the groove on the beak. You can do this a couple of ways you can make a simple template out of paper (18a) or draw the outline on yourself free hand. We ended up doing a combination of the two (18b). Once you have the area marked out start pushing in the foam within the marked area with your fingers or butt end of your Sharpie 21 corners to give them a more rounded look 18 Coating ano ealing The mask's almost done, but so far it still looks like a hockey mask with a styrofoam cone glued to it. Let's fix that now. Break out your tub of plaster or spackle and 1Ogive the beak a good lathering of the stuff (23). Try to get a good, even coverage over al「 of the foam, but don't worry about covering the plastic of the mask (24) Now we want to add some boney ridges around the eyes to give the face some detail. Before we can do 23 we need to do something about the gaps left where the beak meets the mask. Cut off a couple of chunks from the left over styrofoam scraps from earlier and hot-glue them into the gaps (20). Shove them inoo the gaps as tightly as you can. Once the foam's in place, start pressing the foam in until it's flush with the rest of the beak. Don't worry about being gentle with the foam here. tends to absorb paint and the mask itself is flexible enough that the plaster would just crack off once it's dry. When you're done coating the mask with the plaster, leave the mask to dry for a few hours. There's a lot on there, so you may have to leave it overnight. Once its dry, take a sheet of the 220-grade sand-paper and sand the plaster as smooth as you can get it. 20
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The Plague Doctor

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